STARTING VEGETABLES FROM SEEDS - PEAS  printer friendly copy

 

   

In this particular chapter of my upcoming book Organic Gardening Simplified, I have over 30 vegetables that are started from seeds (Artichoke to Zucchini) in it, l show how to grow and maintain them.
  
        First, immerse seeds overnight, preferably in a receptacle half filled with tepid drinking water.


 

 

The following morning, wrap them in a wet paper towel, stuff inside a plastic bag but do not seal it, and place on top of fridge or warm place for a couple of days.

 

Remove from paper towel once they’re pre-sprouted, which should take from a couple, to several days, depending on the cultivar and temperature in which they’re kept.
 

 

Bathe in compost tea or in 1 teaspoon of hydrolyzed fish emulsion/seaweed solution per cup of water, for 10-15 minutes.

 

 

While they’re still wet, coat them with inoculant, which is a type of bacteria that increases the amount of nitrogen fixed by the legume; if not sown within 24 hours, re-inoculate.
 

 

While the peas are germinating (if grown indoors), preparing the soil is the first step to successful planting. When spading (if that’s your method), shovel the first 5-6 shovelfuls into a wheelbarrow or on a tarp next to the raised bed; this will give you enough room to turn over the rest of the soil without spilling it over the edge.
 

 

Once you finish spading, bring the wheelbarrow to the opposite end and replace soil.

 

 

Rake it evenly to host the new seeds or seedlings.
 

 

Measure the length you prefer. I do intensive gardening and make my rows close together to save space.

Tie a line on each side of the raised bed, sprinkle a dusting of organic phosphorous and potassium (use very little nitrogen) along the chalk line.
 

 

Incorporate fertilizer 2-3” deep to make sure the roots of the seedling will have enough nutrients when it begins to grow.

 

Peas or any other seed are not to be sowed too deeply whether they’re grown in a pot or directly into the soil – usually double the seed size.

In this case I will make the furrow about ¾ to 1” in depth.
 

 

Whether planting outdoors or indoors, always soak seeds overnight and place in compost or fish emulsion/ seaweed brew for 10-15 minutes, then dip in inoculants (if preferred) before sowing.

Cover with 1/2” of fine soil.
 

 

When sown directly outdoors and the seedlings grow a couple of inches, they begin to crowd one another; thin out the weakest ones to the spacing of your choice

 

 

Sharpen ends of twigs or small branches and push them in between seedlings for support, but try not to damage the roots. 

 

 

If sown indoors, use peat pots; pea roots do not like to be disturbed when transplanted.

When germinated in a warm place, seedling should emerge within 3-4 days depending on the variety.
 

 

Once the indoor grown seedlings have 2 true leaves and are hardened to cold temperatures, they can be transplanted outdoors– just cut the weakest sibling to the soil line. 
 

 

After cutting off one of the seedlings, plant peat pot and all, but do not let any part of the pot stick above the soil line.

 

 

Before the supports are put up, check if plants are too close together and thin to your discretion

Every gardener knows his or her soil best.

 

 

Naturally, sugar snap pole need staking, and make sure to use a sturdy trellis; the vines can reach 8-10 feet in height and can easily topple over if not properly anchored.
 

 

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